How to enable macro TF_LITE_STRIP_ERROR_STRINGS?

tensorflow/lite/core/api/error_reporter.h says:
If you are looking to reduce binary size, define TF_LITE_STRIP_ERROR_STRINGS

however outputs:

CMake Warning:
Manually-specified variables were not used by the project:

And when I continue building TfLite, then indeed I still see a TfLite ERROR message when I load a (deliberately) broken TfLite model.

Putting #define TF_LITE_STRIP_ERROR_STRINGS 1 at the top of my own code also does not get rid of the TfLite ERROR message.

Example code:

#include "tensorflow/lite/model.h"
#include "tensorflow/lite/interpreter.h"
#include "tensorflow/lite/kernels/register.h"
#include "tensorflow/lite/core/api/error_reporter.h"

int main() {
	const char invalid_model[] = {1, 2, 3};
	unique_ptr<tflite::FlatBufferModel> m = tflite::FlatBufferModel::VerifyAndBuildFromBuffer(invalid_model, 3);
	return 0;